Car Lockout in Fishtown
Key in the door lock of a red car after the lockout. A car lockout is worked at the lock and the door edge, so the paint and the weather seal are not touched.
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Photos from our own jobs across Chester County, Delaware County, Montgomery County, Lancaster County and Philadelphia. Every picture on this page is our work, not stock.
Key in the door lock of a red car after the lockout. A car lockout is worked at the lock and the door edge, so the paint and the weather seal are not touched.
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Three remote-head keys cut and programmed for the same vehicle, laid out before handing them over. Spares made while the car is in front of us mean the owner is not left with a single key.
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Three vehicle keys, two of them with remote buttons, on the seat of the car they now open. Each one is cut to the car and programmed so the remote and the ignition both answer to it.
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Programming tablet connected to the car and talking to it. This is how a new key is written to the vehicle: the car learns the key at the curb, without a trip to a dealer.
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Four flip-style remote keys made for one vehicle, on the seat. A flip key is cut on the blade and programmed for the remote, so both parts have to be done for each one.
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Key in the ignition with the programming tablet plugged in below the dash. The new key is written to the car's own computer, so it starts the engine and not only opens the door.
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Vehicle keys and separate remotes on one ring, laid on the seat. When the remote is a separate unit, each remote is paired to the car on its own, and then the keys are cut.
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Smart key held in front of the dashboard of the car it was made for. A smart key is programmed to the vehicle rather than cut, so the car recognizes it in a pocket.
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Flip key held up in front of the steering wheel of the car it now starts. The blade folds into the remote head, and both the blade and the remote are matched to this vehicle.
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Two smart key fobs held outside the car, both programmed to it. Having two from the start means a lost one can be removed from the car without leaving the owner with none.
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Brass knob lock on a white interior door, with the latch and strike plate visible. Interior knobs get swapped when they stick or when a room needs a lock it never had.
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Key turning in the knob lock of a security screen door. Screen-door locks are small, and when one seizes the fix is a new cylinder or a new knob set matched to the door's own key.
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Deadbolt and knob on a white door, keys in the lock. A deadbolt and a knob on the same door are normally keyed alike, so one key works both.
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Brushed steel knob lock on a black painted door. A knob set change is a small job with one rule: the new latch has to sit on the old strike, or the strike moves with it.
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The old cylinders and parts collected in a tray after a lock change. Everything that comes out of a door leaves with us, and when a house gets new cylinders they can be keyed alike so one key runs every door.
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New deadbolt and matching lever handle fitted on a white front door. Bolt and handle keyed to the same key, lined up on the strike so the door closes without lifting.
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New deadbolt, key still in it, fitted on an old weathered door. Old doors are rarely square, so the bolt and the strike are set to the door as it hangs, not to the drawing.
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Keypad deadbolt with a matching lever handle on a grey front door. The code runs the bolt and the lever below it stays a plain handle, so the door works the same with or without the keypad.
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Pull handle with its own key cylinder on a metal storefront door. On a store door the cylinder is the part that takes the wear, and it is the part that gets changed or rekeyed when the key stops turning cleanly.
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The edge of a commercial door opened up to reach the lock case, and the cylinder that came out of it. A repair on a door like this is done at the door: the mechanism comes apart, the worn part is replaced, and the door is closed up again.
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Glass storefront door held open during the work, tools on the pavement. On an aluminum storefront the lock, the closer and the threshold all affect how the door latches, so the whole line is checked, not only the lock.
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Latch guard fitted over the edge of a storefront lock, marked push. The plate covers the gap around the latch so the bolt cannot be reached from outside.
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Exit device trim with a paddle handle on a commercial door. The paddle works the same latch as the push bar inside, so the door can be pulled open from outside with a key and pushed open from inside without one.
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Lever handle with a key cylinder on a commercial entrance door, and a close view of the same handle. A commercial lever takes far more use than a house door, so the grade of the lever matters as much as the lock inside it.
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Panic bar on a grey commercial door with a wired-glass panel. A panic bar has to open on one push from inside; the work is in lining up the bar, the latch and the strike so it does exactly that.
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One safe job from start to finish: the steel safe on its back in the garage, on its side during the work, and standing upright with the tools still on it. A safe is worked on where it sits: the garage floor was the bench for this one.
More about safe installationTell us what the lock is doing and where the vehicle or the door is.